Pittsburgh – 3/1-3/2/2014

Courtney and I were watching a show on Showtime on Thursday night called “Another Day Another Time – Celebrating the Music of ‘Inside Llewyn Davis'” that was a concert with all different groups playing music from the film and other music of that genre. We saw the film in December and I would give the film a B-, just OK.  The Showtime special however, was REALLY good with many of our favorite artists and some new ones that I have already been checking out on Spotify (love our premium Spotify subscription).  We really were digging the Avett Brothers on the show – real standouts – so while we sitting watching we were checking them out on our tablets and found out that they were playing in Pittsburgh that coming Saturday along with Old Crowe Medicine Show who we saw in Troy this summer and really liked.  So…. then and there we decided to road trip to Pittsburgh – bought our tickets and booked a hotel while sitting on the couch.  A+ for spontaneity Patrick and Courtney.  Saturday was also my Birthday so we were looking for something to do I must say.

We left Euclid around 8:00 AM on Saturday entrusting the girls to Claire for the evening and made our way to Steeler country. The drive to Pittsburgh was nice and easy, only a bit more than two hours.  Our first stop was to the Frick Museum which has been on our list for a long long time since going to the Frick in Manhattan which is one of our favorites. The museum is the preserved estate of Henry Clay Frick, a 19th century Industrialist and one of the founders of US Steel – a real bastard after reading about him, but he did have good taste in houses and art.  We bought tickets for a tour of the house and while waiting for 30 minutes for it to start we checked out the car and carriage museum that is part of the complex.  While I’m not one for car museums, they did have some beautiful old cars and carriages that have been beautifully maintained.  The tour of the house, Clayton, was really amazing though.  We happened to be on a special tour that focused on Frick’s art in the house and his early collecting.  Everything in the house is original and is beautifully maintained.  Beautiful wood, furniture, plaster… everything.  Our tour guide was really knowledgeable and we learned a lot about 19th century American art.  We would like to go again and go on the “regular” tour to hear more of the history of the house and the architecture.  After our hour and a half tour we checked out the greenhouse and the separate art museum that Helen Frick – Henry Clay’s daughter and fellow art collector – built on the property when she moved back to the estate in her later years.

A few pix from the internet:

Clayton
The Dining room – amazing.
Courtney in the greenhouse. Beautiful swiss chard.

We then made our way to Downtown Pittsburgh, just 10 minutes away, to explore and find somewhere to eat.  After creatively finding somewhere to park downtown we ended up at a nice Italian place on Market Square called Il Pizzaiola that was really great.  We had “Its Vacation So Lets Have Beer For Lunch”, an order of super fresh calamari, and then we split a pizza Margherita and a big salad.  perfecto.  I had some sort of Italian draft porter that was brewed in oyster shells or something like that that was superb.  I asked our waiter to write the name of it down as it was so good but of course I lost the piece of paper.  After lunch we walked around a bit, checking out the old buildings, walk down to the river where an old Fort was and you could see the stadiums across the river and then walked back up.  I don’t think I have ever been in downtown Pittsburgh before.  Reminds me of both Cleveland and Cincinnati… maybe not quite as downtrodden?

We found our car and made our way to our hotel, Hilton Garden Inn Pittsburgh University Place on the University of Pittsburgh campus as that is where the concert was going on.  Nice recently re-done hotel, hopping place full of concert goers.  We relaxed for awhile, walked across the street to the IGA to get some pre-concert beers and snacks, and then walked to the concert around 7:00PM.  The arena was up a long steep hill and then once we got there, will call was up about 4 levels of steps.  We eventually made it in, found our seats and enjoyed the show.  Both groups were great.  It looked to be pretty much sold out.  We had bizarre seats that were one row of seats in some sort of club section.  There was nobody behind use so we were able to stand up, use the tables there and watch the show. It was nice.  The concert lasted until about 11:00 and we walked back, stopped at McDonalds on the way for a quick cheeseburger and made it back to the hotel.  Tired but happy.

View of stage

The next days a blizzard was on it’s way to Pittsburg so we decided to hit the road right away at 7:30AM and not risk it.  It was already snowing a bit but not too bad.  As we made our way north the snow got heavier but was never too bad.  We were going to stop at the IKEA outside of Pittsburgh but we decided not to risk it.  We did stop at the Original Pancake House on Chagrin though on the way home and had a nice breakfast, stopped at the Whole Foods for some stuff and made it home before 11:00.

The Goldfinch; Donna Tart

A teenage boy’s mother dies when they are in the Metropolitan Museum of Art and a terrorist bomb goes off.  The boy ends up taking “The Goldfinch” – a priceless 17th century painting-  in his dream like escape from the museum.  The novel follows Theo for the next few decades and his adventures that are always haunted by his possession and obsession with the Goldfinch.
A top novel on most fiction lists for 2013.  It is quite a hefty one, 900 pgs + on Overdrive, but I enjoyed it and have been pretty wrapped up in it all week long with my week long cold.  It is completely amazing to me the talent someone has to come up with a story like this out of thin air and to write it in such an eloquent way.

I love the last paragraph:

“That life – whatever else it is – is short. That fate is cruel but maybe not random. That Nature (meaning Death) always wins but that doesn’t mean we have to bow and grovel to it. That maybe even if we’re not always so glad to be here, it’s our task to immerse ourselves anyway: wade straight through it, right through the cesspool, while keeping eyes and hearts open. And in the midst of our dying, as we rise from the organic and sink back ignominiously into the organic, it is a glory and a privilege to love what Death doesn’t touch.”

PJH rating: ***1/2

This is Where I Leave You; Jonathan Tropper

Judd returns to his mother’s home to sit shiva for seven days along with his flamboyant mother, two brothers and a sister and their assorted families and significant others.  Typical and over the top mayhem ensues.  Fun, often laugh out loud story.  Being made into a movie I just read… with good casting: Jason Bateman, Tina Fey and Adam Driver (Hannah’s creepy yet lovable boyfriend on Girls) – should be good.

PJH rating: ****

The Fault in Our Stars; John Green

Two teenagers, one in late stage cancer and another in remission, meet at a support group and become boyfriend/girlfriend.  They end up traveling to Amsterdam together to visit the author of a book that brought them together.  A good book about teenagers, friendship and death.  Lost some steam in the end… becoming a bit too sappy.  A quick, fulfilling read though – I read it straight through on Wednesday 6:00 PM in the bathtub until 11:30 at night.

PJH Rating: ****

The Good Lord Bird; James McBride

Historical fiction account of abolitionist James Brown who led the attack on Harper’s Ferry that spurred the start of the Civil War.  Told from the view point of “Onion”, a 14 year old boy slave who ends up dressing up as a girl during his years with Brown.  The novel was the 2013 winner of the National Book Award for fiction and on many top 10 lists for the year.  While I found it a bit lengthy and hard to get through at times, it is very original, well written and a good read.

PJH Rating: ****

French Onion Soup

French onion soup is definitely the perfect solution for being holed up on a snowy weekend.  This soup is so easy to make and tastes so good when you use good ingredients.  I followed Deb’s recipe on smittenkitchen.com, which is pretty much similar to other recipes but with a few extra details like most of her recipes.  Caramelizing the onions for a long time and using Gruyere cheese produces a first rate product.

five cups of onions. about 2 1/2 of the big ones.
the onions after 15 minutes
the onions after 1 hour just before adding the liquid. I probably could have done them a little longer to get them just a bit darker but they were getting very sticky and I didn’t want to burn them.
I toasted the bread in a 400 degree oven, turning them every five minutes until they were very hard. Don’t use un-toasted bread or it will turn to mush.
ridiculously expensive… but so worth it.
into the oven they go
Olivia Newton John enjoying her soup.

I pretty much followed the recipe below except I didn’t add the raw onion and the cognac at the end. It turned out perfectly.

From: www.smittenkitchen.com

Onion Soup [Soupe à l’Oignon]
Adapted from Mastering the Art of French Cooking

1 1/2 pounds (680 grams or 24 ounces or about 5 cups) thinly sliced yellow onions
3 tablespoons (42 grams or 1 1/2 ounces) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon (15 ml) olive oil
1 teaspoon (5 grams) table salt, plus additional to taste
1/4 teaspoon (1 gram) granulated sugar (helps the onions to brown)
3 tablespoons (24 grams or 7/8 ounce) all-purpose flour
2 quarts (8 cups or 1.9 liters) beef or other brown stock*
1/2 cup (118 ml) dry white wine or dry white vermouth
Freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons (45 ml) cognac or brandy (optional)

To finish [Gratinée] (Optional)
1 tablespoon grated raw onion
1 to 2 cups (to taste) grated Swiss (I often use Gruyere) or a mixture of Swiss and Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon butter, melted
12 to 16 1-inch thick rounds French bread, toasted until hard

Melt the butter and oil together in the bottom of a 4- to 5-quart saucepan or Dutch oven over moderately low heat. Add the onions, toss to coat them in oil and cover the pot. Reduce the heat to real low and let them slowly steep for 15 minutes. They don’t need your attention; you can even go check your email.

After 15 minutes, uncover the pot, raise the heat slightly and stir in the salt and sugar. Cook onions, stirring frequently, for 30 to 40 minutes until they have turned an even, deep golden brown. Don’t skimp on this step, as it will build the complex and intense flavor base that will carry the rest of the soup. Plus, from here on out, it will be a cinch.

After the onions are fully caramelized, sprinkle them with flour and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add the wine in full, then stock, a little at a time, stirring between additions. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and simmer partially covered for 30 to 40 more minutes, skimming if needed. Correct seasonings if needed but go easy on the salt as the cheese will add a bit more saltiness and I often accidentally overdo it. Stir in the cognac, if using. I think you should.

Set aside until needed. I find that homemade onion soup is so deeply fragrant and flavor-rich that it can stand alone, but that doesn’t mean we don’t enjoy the graitinéed top once in a while. Here’s how to pull it off:

Preheat oven to 325. Arrange six ovenproof soup bowls or crocks on a large, foil-lined baking sheet. Bring the soup back to a boil and divide among six bowls. To each bowl, add 1/2 teaspoon grated raw onion and a tablespoon of grated cheese. Stir to combine. Dab your croutons with a tiny bit of butter and float a few on top of your soup bowls, attempting to cover it. Mound grated cheese on top of it; how much you use will be up to you. [Julia Child, in another era, felt that 1/2 cup of grated cheese could be divided among 6 bowls. I can assure you that if you’d like your gooey bubbling cheese lid to be anything like what you get at your local French restaurant, you are looking to use more, such as a generous 1/4 cup.]

Bake soups on tray for 20 minutes, then preheat broiler. Finish for a minute or two under the broiler to brown the top lightly. Grab pot holders, and serve immediately.

* Porcini or mushroom stock are a robust vegetarian substitution.

Lemon Meringue Bars

A bag of lemons in the refrigerator was calling my name last evening.  I love me a good lemon square but I thought I’d try something a little different on this cold blustery January eve.  This recipe is completely ridiculous…1 3/4 cups plus 2 T. flour; 2 1/4 cups plus 2 T. sugar.  Come on…seriously?  So silly.  But I must say… it came out perfectly.  Buttery crust, lots of super lemony filling and meringue is great on everything.

…and lots of butter always helps.
the crust before going into the oven. it came together really easily using a mixer which I never did before.
the filling ingredients – lots and lots of lemon juice.
Grace made the meringue topping… cracking up separating the eggs.
ripples of lovely meringue
et volia!

Lemon Meringue Bars;   Martha Stewart Living

  • 2 sticks (16 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened
  • 1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons confectioners sugar
  • 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
  • 1/4 teaspoon coarse salt
  • 6 large eggs, plus 4 large egg whites
  • 2 1/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
  • 3/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  1. Preheat oven to 350. Make crust: Put butter, flour, confectioners sugar, 2 teaspoons lemon zest, and the salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on medium speed until well blended.

  2. Transfer mixture to a 9-by-13-inch rimmed baking sheet. Press batter evenly into baking sheet. Chill in freezer 10 minutes. Bake until golden, 20 to 22 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack.

  3. Make filling: Whisk together whole eggs, 1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, the lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons lemon zest. Pour over crust. Bake until filling is set, 18 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely on a wire rack. Keep oven at 350.

  4. Make meringue topping: Put egg whites and 1/2 cup granulated sugar in the clean bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until stiff peaks form.

  5. Using an offset spatula or the back of a spoon, spread meringue over filling, swirling to create soft peaks. Bake until meringue begins to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool completely. Cut into bars. Bars can be refrigerated in an airtight container, up to 1 day.

The Coldest Girl in Coldtown; Holly Black

Our 17 year old protagonist wakes up in the house from the previous night’s house party to find all the other teenagers dead and several hungry vampires trying to get her.  The world has developed “Coldtowns” in each big city where all the vampires are exiled to live out their un-lives.  The girl finds herself in one of these and the typical vampire teenage hi jinx ensue.  Not sure how this one got in my queue but it was sort of fun to read – pretty gory for AYA fiction.

PJH rating: ***